Kya Surat Hai

"Who goes to Surat?", "What is there in Surat?"  I had been bombarded with these questions when I planned my trip to this exciting Gujarati city.  What started by the sudden dropping of airfares led to a weekend of refreshing experiences.

Surat has been and continues being so, the heaven of textile traders from across the country and beyond.  This becomes evident the moment you step in the city.  There are uncountable textile markets all over.  And I can tell you, clothes, especially sarees are really cheap here.  Especially so if you're buying in bulk though retail sales are equally encouraged.  Try the Bombay Market for retail, and textile market for wholesale.  

But the textile supplier of the country has much more to offer.  The streets are clean, roads are wide and have so many flyovers you tend to believe you're still in Delhi.  There are no traffic jams, whether it is a weekday or a weekend, whether it is morning or evening.  The first impression you get of the city, progressive, rich and satisfied.  No beggars anywhere, nobody's running after your life to buy their products, or to suggest you to stay at their "partner" (read commission) hotels, or almost force you to sit in their autos.  Surati people lead their life at their pace and with content.  They give you space to relish their city on your own.  Oh yes, and it doesn't mean they don't care for you.  The moment they get the slightest hint that you need help, and they are all ready.

There is this unique sense of freshness in the air.  There is much noise or air pollution for a city of its magnitude except for places perhaps where some new flyover is getting constructed.  You can excuse them for this.  The only real means of commuting in the city are autos which can be seen, at first, as a case of monopoly and harassment,  but you won't believe so since the fares they charge are pretty reasonable and you would never need to haggle with them.  Though I still strongly believe there must be other means available too like buses and perhaps, even more importantly, manual rickshaws, which would further aid in cleaning up the city's air.

As far accommodation goes, apart from Grand Bhagwati, Taj, and Ginger, most of the hotels are located around the railway station area, which I guess is also a good area to stay in as it is in the heart of the city and everyplace becomes equally approachable.  We stayed at the Bellevue hotel.  Nice 3 star property.  Recommended.

More than 90% of the world's diamonds are cut and polished here.  But this is not something that can be felt on the streets though :-).  Nevertheless, there are enough diamond showrooms across the city to keep the ladies interested.

Next on the line - Food.  Top quality.  Inexpensive.  And really really tasty.  I can say without exaggeration that they probably make equally good, if not better,  North Indian food than North Indians themselves.  We ate at multiple hotels,  road side stalls, low end restaurants, top of the line ones.  All did a great job.  Try Indian's first resolving restaurant, Kandeel, above the Tex Palazzo hotel for a wholesome view of the city along with good food of course. Ghari is a famous Surati sweet you must have and take home with you as well.  Get it from Mohan Mithai or any other leading sweet shop.  Gujarati thali is again something you must try.  We missed it as it served at fixed lunch and dinner timings and not all day.

Among places to see, there is really no sightseeing point list.  Explore the city for what it offers.  Here are some pointers to get started.  If you can't get your city's malls out of your mind for any reason, you have enough chic malls on the Dumas road to keep you satisfied.  For some peace time, you have ample temples including Iskcon, Arshardham, Chintamani Jain Temple, Ambika Niketan Temple.  The city is built of both sides of the river Tapti.  It is this river where once traders from 80 odd countries navigated their ships to do business.  To get a good "water filled" view of river however, I recommend you go Iskcon and climb up on the banks.  The beaches are of course a disappointment.  Can't really call them beaches in the first place - Dumas, Suvali and Hazira.  I went to Dumas and was really disheartened.  What could have been a beautiful beach has been converted into a black dirt ground with all the waste coming in from the nearby Hazira industrial town.   I strongly feel the government should pay attention to this and transform this place into a beautiful tourist spot.

Well, its not textiles, not diamonds, and even for food, but the people of Surat who would impress you the most.  Their humility, their hospitality, the content on their faces, their words, their simplicity, their gentleness.  I haven't experienced any other Gujarati city, but I can still say with confidence that Surat demonstrates what Gujarati hospitality truly stands for.  I really wonder why Surat doesn't figure in any promotion campaigns of Gujarat Tourism.  It truly deserves a place.  It has instilled in me a strong desire to experience even more of Gujarat.

Wah ! Kya Surat Hai !